|
|
 The
best way to see Devizes is on foot, strolling along the same lanes
and alleyways that have been trodden by countless others, from Saxon
farmers, merchants and market traders to soldiers of the English
Civil War. Our tour is a journey through time, with the town’s
architecture marking the passage of the years like the rings of
a tree.
As you go, you will see that many buildings bear blue plaques, indicating
that the building is of special interest.
Our walk starts at the Market Place, the largest
in the west of England. Here you are surrounded by buildings from
many periods, nearly all listed as of architectural or historic
interest.
On the north side of the Market Place is the Visitors’
Centre. Here you can learn about much of Devizes’
history, including the war between the Empress Matilda and her cousin
King Stephen. Matilda, the granddaughter of William the Conqueror,
gave Devizes its first Charter in 1141 to acknowledge the loyalty
of the burgesses in her war with Stephen. It made Devizes a borough,
with rights to hold a market and to raise tolls from it.
Indeed, the town has held a market since the 13th century, and it
is still held on Thursday every week.
The Market Cross, given by Lord Sidmouth MP in 1814, bears the legend
of Ruth Pierce, a market trader. In 1753, so the story goes, Pierce
asked God to strike her dead if she lied about a corn deal. He obliged
and she was struck down immediately, with the proof of the lie clutched
in her hand.
The fountain dates from approximately 1879, and commemorates THS
Estcourt MP who stands on the top surveying the town.
Towards the southern corner of the Market Place is the Shambles
Market Hall. Built in 1853, it was the original butter
and poultry market house and is still used today on Thursdays, Fridays
and Saturdays for traditional market goods. On Tuesdays it hosts
an antiques and bric-a-brac market.
The Bear Hotel on the western side of the Market
Place dates back to the 1600s. An old coaching inn, it was the boyhood
home of portrait painter Sir Thomas Lawrence.
Next to the Bear Hotel on the former site of the hotel’s ballroom
is the Corn Exchange (the statue above depicts
Ceres). The exchange was built in 1856 to house the corn market,
after dealers and farmers complained about the lack of protection
for their produce sold at the Market Cross. Refurbished by the Town
Council, the building is now a conference centre and entertainment
venue.
Anyone who appreciates good beer will have no difficulty sniffing
out Wadworth’s brewery (see page 10), located
towards the north exit of the Market Place. Here, Wadworth &
Co. brew many fine beers, including the famous ‘6X’.
The imposing brewery was built in 1855 by Henry Wadworth, using
locally-made bricks from the Devizes Brick and Tile Company. You
can still see shire horses pulling the drays carrying Wadworth ales
to local pubs around Devizes.
To continue the tour, head east along New Park Street, arriving
at the cross roads with Snuff Street on your right. The
snuff factory, built by Richard Anstie in 1698, once stood
here. It was an important part of the town’s economic history,
but the building has since been converted into apartments. To your
left you will see Couch Lane with its steel arch, leading to the
Wharf and the Kennet and Avon canal (see page 15).
Further along New Park Street on the left side is Brownston
House, a Grade 1 listed building that dates back to 1720.
After falling into disrepair, it was rescued by Kennet District
Council and today is one of the finest buildings in Devizes.
Along from Brownston House is St. Mary’s church,
one of two original Norman churches in Devizes. Built in about 1150
on the site of a smaller church, St.Mary’s is the oldest church
in the town. The exterior was substantially rebuilt in the 15th
century.
Cross the road to Monday Market Street and on your left, at number
6 to 8, you can see the Great Porch House. This
is Devizes’ oldest property, believed to date from the 15th
century.
From Monday Market Street, turn right into Maryport Street. On your
left is the Brittox, now a shopping precinct but supposed once to
have been the main approach to Devizes Castle. The name Brittox
is believed to be derived from the Bretesque, the wooden stockade
that flanked the route as it made its way up to the castle gates.
Walk down the Brittox and continue through Wine Street, cross the
pedestrian crossing in St.John’s Street and you will see the
gates of Devizes castle.
This has been a fortified site for thousands of years, and we know
that an early Iron Age hill fort stood on the mound. The first ‘castle’
was built here in the 11th century by Osmund, Bishop of Salisbury.
Its position on the boundary line between the ancient manors of
Bishop Cannings and Potterne is claimed to be the origin of the
name, Devizes - the Latin for ‘on the boundaries’ is
‘Ad Divisas’.
That first castle was made of wood, and when it burned down in 1113
a stone castle was erected in its place by Roger, Bishop of Salisbury.
For more than 500 years, the castle dominated the town and the surrounding
area, until in 1646 it was destroyed by the Parliamentarians in
revenge for the support it gave to the Royalist cause in the English
Civil War. All that remains today is the outline of the moat and
traces of the foundations of the great hall. The present building
on the site dates from the 1800s and is divided into privately owned
flats. It is not open to the public.
Continuing down St. John’s Street eastwards, you will see
the Town Hall. Redesigned in 1806 by Thomas Baldwin
of Bath, the Town Hall used part of an earlier 17th century building
that included a lock up. The Assembly Room, with its fine Adam-style
plaster, was restored a few years ago to its original Georgian appearance.
Visitors are welcome to go inside to take a look at the interiors,
where you will also find a fascinating gallery of old and historic
photographs of the town. You can also make arrangements to view
the town’s fine collection of gold and silver plate, which
includes maces and other pieces dating back to the 1600s.
Behind the Town Hall is St John’s Church,
with its imposing 22 metre high tower housing eight bells. This
is the town’s other Norman church, and viewed from any angle
it is beautifully-proportioned. The tower is not square but rectangular,
and the stonework is so accurate that the joins between them are
all but invisible to the naked eye, giving the tower the appearance
of being carved from solid rock. Step inside and you will find more
examples of the finest Norman church architecture in England.
Set within a tranquil churchyard a stone’s throw from the
castle, St. John’s was almost certainly built by Bishop Roger
as the original ‘castle church’.
On the opposite side of the road to the Town Hall is St.
John’s Alley. This outstanding example of timber-framed
building with ‘oversailing’ upper floors dates back
to the 16th century, and provides an authentic glimpse back into
Tudor England.
Continuing northwards along St. John’s Street brings you back
to the Market Place and the end of this short tour. We hope it has
given you an interesting, if brief snapshot of our town.
Further Out
If you have a little more time, Devizes offers a wide variety of
other attractions. Hillworth Park can be found
on the southern side of the town, along with Hillworth House which
was built in 1832. A popular place for local people and visitors
alike, the park has ornamental flower gardens, a water garden and
play areas for both the under fives and older children. A recent
addition is the new aviary, designed and built with contributions
from the community as part of the Millennium celebrations.
At the eastern entrance to the town are The Green
and The Crammer. The large open
space of the Green is often used by travelling fairs and circuses.
The Crammer is said to be where the famous ‘Wiltshire Moonraker’
legend was born (see page 25), and for many years was a regular
watering place for cattle and horses being driven to and from the
town. Even circus elephants have bathed in it, although these days
it is the haunt of swans and ducks.
The Kennet and Avon Canal runs through the northern
part of Devizes. One of the country’s most beautiful waterways,
it was built by John Rennie in 1810 and was a vital trade link for
local industries. Today it provides a beautiful and valuable source
of recreation for residents and visitors alike. You can take a walk
along the towpath, which is a public footpath, or for the less adventurous
there are leisurely boat trips that depart from the Wharf. Times
and other information are available at the Kennet and Avon Canal
shop on the Wharf or the Visitor Centre.
The Wharf area in Couch Lane contains shops, a
theatre and a museum on the history of the canal, and forms the
focal point for canal-based activities. Each year at Easter people
arrive at Devizes from across the world to take part in the famous
Devizes to Westminster Canoe Race, which starts at the Wharf. It’s
great fun to watch, but the town is packed to capacity and you are
advised to book early at the Visitor Centre if you need accommodation.
As well as the beautiful surroundings, the canal is world famous
for the Caen Hill Locks, a spectacular flight of
29 locks that raises the water level 72 metres over a distance of
2.5 miles. The whole flight was completely restored during the 1980s
and re-opened by Her Majesty the Queen in 1990. It is a popular
spot and offers facilities for walkers, cyclists, anglers and picnic
parties.
The Wiltshire Constabulary’s headquarters
are located on London Road. The Chief Constable, is based there
together with other members of the management team.
The current headquarters opened in 1964 and is the base for one
of the two force control rooms. It also houses a range of specialist
units, including the police dog section, firearms and public order
units, human resources, recruitment and training departments, major
crime investigation units plus corporate development and scientific
support.
Despite Wiltshire being one of the safest counties in the UK the
police force is not complacent. They continue to seek improvements
in their performance and service to the people of Wiltshire, delivering
on their statement of purpose to ‘Keep Wiltshire Safe’.
|
How to get to Devizes
