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The best way to see Devizes is on foot, strolling along the same
lanes and alleyways that have been trodden by countless others down
the ages. Our tour is a journey through time, with the town’s
architecture marking the passage of the years like the rings of
a tree.
On your walk you will see that many buildings bear blue plaques,
indicating that the building is of special interest. If you would
like to learn more about these you can purchase the Trust for Devizes’
Town Trail at the Visitors Centre.
Our walk starts at the Market Place, the largest in the west of
England. Here you are surrounded by buildings from many periods,
nearly all listed as of architectural or historic interest.
On the north side of the Market Place is the Visitors Centre where
you can learn about much of Devizes’ history, including the
war between the Empress Matilda and her cousin Stephen. To acknowledge
the loyalty of the burgesses of the town in her war with Stephen,
Matilda, the granddaughter of William the Conqueror, gave Devizes
its first Charter in 1141 and made it a borough, with rights to
hold a market and to raise tolls from it. That market is still held
every Thursday.
The Market Cross, given by Lord Sidmouth, the town’s MP and
a former Prime Minister in 1814, bears the chilling tale of Ruth
Pierce. In 1753, so the story goes, Ruth, accused of theft in a
corn deal, asked God to strike her dead if she was lying. It seems
that the Almighty took her at her word and she was immediately struck
down with the proof of the lie clutched in her hand!
The fountain dates from 1879, and commemorates Thomas Southeron
Estcourt MP who gave the town its Friendly Society. It is his statue
that stands on the top surveying the town.
Towards the southern corner of the Market Place is the Shambles
Market Hall. Built in 1853, it was the original butter and poultry
market hall and is still used today on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays
for traditional market goods. On Tuesdays it hosts an antiques and
bric-a-brac market.
The Bear Hotel on the western side of the Market Place was a coaching
inn before 1600. It is best known as being the boyhood home of portrait
painter Sir Thomas Lawrence.
Next to the Bear Hotel is the Corn Exchange. You can see a statue
of Ceres, Goddess of Grain above. The exchange was built in 1856
to house the corn market, after dealers and farmers complained about
the lack of protection for their produce. Refurbished by the Town
Council, the building is now a conference centre and entertainment
venue.
Devizes is home to Wadworth & Co, brewers of many fine beers,
including the famous ‘6X’. You will see the imposing
brewery as you look north from the Market Place. Built in 1885 by
Henry Wadworth, using locally-made bricks, the brewery is a fine
example of Victorian industrial architecture. The brewery still
delivers beer to its town pubs by horse-drawn drays, so look out
for them on your tour.
The brewery has its own Visitor Centre where you can learn more
about the history of the company, its adventurous founder and the
art of brewing a good pint. You can also take a tour of the brewery,
which includes the stables and the sign shop (where they still paint
pub signs by hand). Last but not least, you can sample their range
of beers.
To continue the tour, head east along New Park Street, arriving
at the cross roads with Snuff Street on your right. This is so called
because there used to be a snuff factory at the Market Place end.
Longs Building, on the far side of Snuff Street, was one of the
earliest cloth factories. Built in 1785 it is said to have housed
up to 300 looms. Later it was converted into a tobacco factory and
remained so until the 1950s. The building is now private apartments.
To your left you will see Couch Lane with its steel arch, leading
to the Wharf and the Kennet and Avon canal.
Further along New Park Street, on your left is Brownston House,
a Grade 1 listed building that dates back to 1720. It is undoubtedly
one of the finest buildings in Devizes.
Along from Brownston House is St. Mary’s church, one of two
original Norman churches in Devizes. Built in about 1150 on the
site of a smaller church, St.Mary’s is the oldest church in
the town. The exterior was substantially rebuilt in the 15th century.
Cross the road to Monday Market Street (so called because this was
where the original market was held) and on your left you can see
Great Porch House. This is Devizes’ oldest property, believed
to date from the 15th century.
From Monday Market Street, turn right into Maryport Street. On your
left is the Brittox, now a shopping precinct but once the main approach
to Devizes Castle. The name Brittox is believed to be derived from
the Bretesque, the wooden stockade that flanked the route as it
made its way up to the castle gates.
Walk down the Brittox and continuing through Wine Street, cross
the pedestrian crossing in St. John’s Street and turn left.
You will see the gates of Devizes castle on your right. Unfortunately
neither the castle nor its grounds are open to the public.
This has been a fortified site for thousands of years, and we know
that an early Iron Age hill fort stood on the mound. The first castle
was built here in the 11th century by Osmund, Bishop of Salisbury.
Its position on the boundary line between the ancient manors of
Bishop Cannings, Rowde and Potterne is claimed to be the origin
of the town’s name, the Latin for ‘on the boundaries’
being ‘ad divisas’. Through the centuries this has developed
through Divisae, De Vies, Divisis and The Vize to today’s
Devizes.
That first castle was made of wood, and when it burned down in 1113
a stone castle was erected in its place by Roger, Bishop of Salisbury.
For more than 500 years, the castle dominated the town and the surrounding
area, until in 1646 it was destroyed by the Parliamentarians in
revenge for the support it gave to the Royalist cause in the English
Civil War. All that remains today is the outline of the moat and
traces of the foundations of the great hall. The present castle
dates from the 1800s and is divided into privately owned flats.
Continuing down St. John’s Street southwards, you will see
the Town Hall. Redesigned in 1806 by Thomas Baldwin, the City Architect
of Bath, the building used part of an earlier 17th century structure
that included the town lock-up which can be seen at the rear. The
Assembly Room, with its fine Adam-style ceiling, was restored a
few years ago to its original Georgian appearance. Visitors are
welcome to go inside to take a look at the interiors, where you
will also find a fascinating gallery of old and historic photographs
of the town. You can also make arrangements to view the town’s
fine collection of gold and silver plate, which includes maces and
other pieces dating back to the 1600s.
Behind the Town Hall is St John’s Church, with its imposing
22 metre high tower housing eight bells. This is the town’s
other Norman church, and viewed from any angle it is beautifully-proportioned.
The tower is not square but rectangular, and the stonework is so
accurate that the joins between them are all but invisible to the
naked eye, giving the tower the appearance of being carved from
solid rock. Step inside and you will find more examples of the finest
Norman church architecture in England.
Set within a tranquil churchyard a stone’s throw from the
castle, St. John’s was almost certainly built by Bishop Roger
as the original ‘castle church’.
On the opposite side of the road, directly opposite the Town Hall,
is St. John’s Alley. This outstanding example of timber-framed
building with jettied-out upper floors dates back to the 16th century,
and provides an authentic glimpse back into Tudor England. Ladies
please note that there is an excellent hat shop here!
Continuing northwards along St. John’s Street brings you back
to the Market Place and the end of this short tour. We hope it has
given you an interesting, if brief snapshot of our town.
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