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| Northgate |
Like
many another historic town, the best way to see Bridgnorth is on
foot – where the ancient corners, steps and alleyways delight
the discerning visitor. The rather steep steps down to or up from
Low Town is an easy walk for most people although, of course, the
cliff railway is always an easier alternative.
Exploration
of the town can well start at the Town Hall in the High Street –
originally a barn belonging to Lady Bartue of Much Wenlock and built
between 1648 and 1652. Originally of stone, the lower storey was
later faced with brickwork as a means of preservation. Resting on
its high brick arches the building contains many items of historic
interest as well as some fine heraldic stained glass. Visitors are
welcome free of charge. Following age old custom, local people sell
their produce ‘under the arches’ every Saturday.
Nearby
is St Leonard’s Close, a rather lovely and extremely quiet
cathedral type church in miniature. The church is mostly a Victorian
restoration built of red sandstone and replaced an earlier building
that was burnt down during the Civil War. The church centres as
the focal point for the English Haydn Festival that takes place
at the very end of May each year and is one of the most prestigious
in the country.
Around St Leonard’s Close are other historic buildings including
Richard Baxter’s House. Richard Baxter was a pre Civil War
scholar and parliamentarian who complained that Bridgnorth was full
of inns and alehouses which were the undoing of great towns! Also
situated in the Close are the town council offices and the half
timbered Palmer’s Hospital which also dates from the late
17th century and was instituted for the ‘poor widows’
of the parish in memory of Francis Palmer’s mother who is
buried in this same churchyard. Both the Church and Close form an
attractive venue for the Haydn Festival with rather enjoyable picnics
taking place during concert intervals.
Northgate
extends from this point in the town centre and here is located the
Museum of the Bridgnorth Historical Society with its quite fine
collection of historic items. Here, too, is the site of the last
remaining town gate and nearby are more fine timbered buildings
including the Bear Inn. Two other nearby inns are the Crown and
the Kings Head (both half timbered) and, at the foot of the hill,
the Half Moon Battery, a fragment of the old town walls. Situated
in the High Street is the beautifully timbered Swan Inn and, opposite
it, the Tanners’ Wine Shop with four rather odd little figures
(known as caryatids) carved on the second floor overhang. Their
significance is unknown.
Cartway
leads from the higher level of Low Town , past the Black Boy Inn,
to Bishop Percy’s House, the most important medieval building
in the town and one whose magnificent half-timbering dates from
1580 and this was one of the few buildings in Bridgnorth to escape
the great fire. Indeed, it provided accommodation for many townspeople
made homeless by that catastrophe. The house was built by Richard
Forster (or Foster as he is sometimes called) who was a wealthy
barge owner who operated from a nearby riverside wharf. The finely
executed timber work and carving was so ornate that the house was
often referred to as ‘Forster’s Folly’. In 1729,
Thomas Percy was born here. He later became a scholar and antiquary
and author of ‘Reliques of Ancient English Poetry’.
After his death the house had various fortunes – or misfortunes
– including periods as a lodging house, a hucksters shop and
a brass foundry. In 1905, by which time it was in a very poor state
of repair, the house was purchased by the Foster family of Apley
Park. In 1945 they presented the house to Bridgnorth Boys’
Club who carried out substantial repairs to the building and used
it for their meetings. It has been sold for re-conversion to a private
dwelling.
Not far away is Low Town where the Severn is crossed by an 1823
stone bridge. An elegant construction with a clock tower that commemorates
Richard Trevithick who built ‘Catch Me Who Can’, the
first ever steam locomotive to carry fare paying passengers. Parts
of that locomotive were made nearby in Hazeldine’s Foundry.
In the days before good roads and railways the rivers were the main
means of travelling and high among them was the Severn. Bridgnorth’s
quays rivalled those of Bristol or Gloucester. Warehouses, offices
and boatyards lined the river’s banks backed up by grog shops
and drinking dens that were the haunts of the ever thirsty ‘boathauliers’.
These were gangs of ragged toughs who pulled the heavy barges (called
Severn Trows) before towpaths were built. The coming of horses to
pull the barges and then the railways led to a sharp decline in
the river trade. Whereas 250 vessels worked the Shropshire Severn
in 1756, only six barges were left in business by 1862. The last
barge in use in 1859 hit a pier on the bridge and sank, an event
that saw the end of trade on the river – and the end of Bridgnorth
as a port.
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| Bandon
Island |
An
award winning project by the Town Council has been carried through
and there are now fine views both of and from the bridge and river.
The cliffs nearby are riddled with caves including Lavington’s
Hole, a tunnel that was excavated by Cromwellian forces during their
siege of the town. The idea was to burrow below the Royalists’
powder store in the Castle Chapel, fill the cavity with gunpowder,
light the fuse and then run! Word of this plot by Colonel Lavington,
however, called out the defenders of the garrison and they soon
negotiated a surrender!
Had
this early ‘gunpowder plot’ succeeded then the attractive
grounds of Bridgnorth Castle would not be with us. Today it is only
a fragment of its former self (at an angle of seventeen degrees
from the perpendicular it is considerably more than the Tower of
Pisa) having been destroyed after the Parliamentarian forces took
the town. One massive fragment of the keep survives – leaning
at an startling angle. From this point there are impressive views
of the Severn Valley and Low Town below. The long steep road over
the river climbs to the Hermitage Caves, an ancient collection of
rock dwellings that were lived in as homes until 1928. One of these
cave houses was once the secluded retreat of a hermit brother of
the Saxon prince Aethelstan. |